Climbs, Rhymes, and Life...

A New Venture...

2010-08-21T19:58:00.001-07:00

I don't blog here often. Frankly, I'm not cut out for blogging on a hodge podge of life and it's happenings. If I don't have a specific focus... I can't really operate.

So, this blog will be dedicated mostly to musical updates, which happen less and less frequently these days (though I do have a few exciting things on the horizon).

And so, a new blog, The Power Company, is born. We'll talk all things training, all things climbing, and well... did I mention training? This is just the beginning for The Power Company. We're plugged in and ready to run, and our first events are scheduled and will be posted soon.

If you're interested, join us over there at www.powercompanyclimbing.blogspot.com. Lets talk training...

Video for "Float" - a tribute to Todd Skinner

2010-07-16T08:00:00.000-07:00

At the time we wrote "Float", Todd Skinner was a climbing hero to me. After getting to know his family, friends, and hometown, it became clear that Todd affected many people beyond the sport of climbing. As a person, he was just as much a hero as he was when freeing hard pitches on the biggest of walls. Sometimes, we as climbers, lose sight of that. This is my attempt at a reminder... filmed with Todds children in his hometown of Lander, Wyoming, and in my hometown of Cincinnati, Ohio.

Dedicated to the Skinner family, the Ratz family, the Absolon family, and the Lowe-Anker family.

Made possible by The Todd Skinner Foundation and Faded Orange.

www.toddskinnerfoundation.com
www.fadedorange.com

"Float" -Odub and Misty Murphy from Kris Hampton on Vimeo.

OR and one more video...

2010-01-24T08:42:00.001-08:00

Airport. Waiting. Twice a year, the OR show makes me more tired than I want to be, but always ends up being a great time. I touched down in SLC at 1am on Thursday night (Friday morning), and made my way straight to the studio shared by Mike Call and Tim Kemple. Misty was already there, and had already been shooting for the Savgi video. We spent the next few hours drinking, listening to Tims great Boone Speed impersonation, and getting some nice shots for the video, which Mike will be putting together. Can't wait to see it!
As you know, I've been working on learning to edit video, and it was nice to see these guys at work. Real professionals. Dedicated to their crafts, and masters at doing it. Check out Tim's brand new site at www.timkemple.com and Mike at his hugely popular www.momentumvm.com.
While holed up in their studio, escaping the grind of OR, I finished editing the final footage from my recent Southeastern trip. This one was my favorite problem of the trip, so enjoy. Now to go get more footage...

Tennessee Thong (v7) from Kris Hampton on Vimeo.

Always learning...

2010-01-15T10:23:00.000-08:00

Lately I've been trying to learn the art of video editing, inspired by recent shorts and films I've had the pleasure of viewing. PURE, by Chuck Fryberger... Herakleia, by Mike Call...The Players, by Brian Solano... they all have elements I would love to learn to incorporate into my own repertoire. Ultimately, I'd love to film a short documentary (more on that later... much later), and a few music videos (coming sooner than you might think). The process is much like mixing music, a fusion of technical savvy and creative thought. Knowing the platform you're working on is KEY, and thats what I'm doing now... exploring my editing program through the creation of short bouldering videos. My newest sponsor, Faded Orange, has been, and will continue to be a big help and outlet for these pursuits. Check out some of the videos... and I'd love to hear any feedback.

The Pinch V8 from Kris Hampton on Vimeo.

Talented young artist, Justin Vining

2010-01-09T12:55:00.000-08:00

Recently I began the annual series of winter bouldering excursions to the Dirty Souf (yes, Souf). Basecamp for this trip was Chattanooga, at the home of excellent hosts Brian and Jesse Teuter. Last year while there, I had admired a few pieces of the original art adorning their walls, whimsical watercolor and marker cityscapes.
This year I got the chance to meet the young artist, Justin Vining, who is also a full time law student preparing for the bar in July. I suppose that the business of law could easily benefit from having a young lawyer who thinks this creatively. I was struck not only by how charismatic Justin was, but how accomplished he is at such a young age. As an artist myself, and one who feels lucky to have made a living making art, its refreshing to see someone who believes so much in his own creations, and is as passionate for life as a person can be.
Do yourself a favor and head over to justinvining.com. Check out his work there, follow him on facebook, feel good about yourself for helping to support someone living their dreams, and most of all, know that you're lucky to have seen a little bit of the real deal.

Lauren Lee and Keith Ladzinski slideshow in Cincinnati

2009-12-04T19:15:00.001-08:00

Poster by Colleen Riddell.

BE THERE!!!

"Who He Is"... Odub and Misty Murphy, featuring John Bachar on sax.

2009-08-17T18:30:00.000-07:00

Yes, you read that correctly... John Bachar on sax. In the new issue of Deadpoint Magazine, I wrote about my only encounter with the late icon of our sport. Please go check it out... www.deadpointmag.com. I'm on page 12... turn your speakers up and listen while you read.

To download the song: Who He Is, featuring Misty Murphy and John Bachar.

Lander, Wyoming and Cowboy Poems

2009-07-17T08:08:00.000-07:00

Hiking the trail from Wild Iris. Photo by Joe Kinder

I'm in the middle of the short, hectic space where I'm not yet completely unpacked from my Lander, Wyoming trip, but I have to leave for Salt Lake and the OR Trade Show in 2 days. So much to get done... so little motivation. Frankly, I just want to sit on my ass for a few minutes.

So... Lander. Amazing. Maybe the greatest small town anywhere, surrounded by incredible climbing, and inhabited by the nicest people anywhere (and hottest women). I hope you don't believe me, because when I go back, again and again, I'd love for it to not be overrun with horny climber guys. Oh yeah... it won't... the grades are relatively stiff.

Thanks to Lindsay Nohls for making the ICF another great event, and thanks to the entire Skinner Family for their amazing hospitality. I had an incredible time, and will most certainly be back more often than I counted on.
To honor the Lander locals, who treated me so well last year, I wrote a cowboy poem to perform at the festival. To write the poem I used 65 route names from the local guidebook.

King Of Hea rts (Lander Cowboy P oem) (download)

King Of Hearts (Lander Cowboy Poem) (streaming)

Photo by Michael Cartwright

It took me a few days to get really used to the limestone there, focusing mostly on Sinks Canyon, which I had neglected to visit last year. Once I hit my stride there, I fell in love with the stone. I matched my hardest onsight (12d), and managed to redpoint a 13b before I had to start taking care of my festival duties.

Cow Reggae 13b Photo by Becca Skinner

Killer 12c Photo by Becca Skinner

Strangely, climbing wasn't the most memorable part of the trip. This time it was, by far, the people. I got to know the Skinner family much better, and they are truly an incredible group of people. South Africa '11?? Yes, count me in.

Jake, Sarah, Me, Becca, Hannah. Photo by Amy Skinner

Lowering from Cartoon Graveyard 12d, Photo by Joe Kinder

Touched.

2009-06-15T17:21:00.000-07:00

The last real conversation I had with Micah Dash was about our fathers. He had met my daughter the previous weekend, and when I told him that my worst fear was becoming my father, he laughed out loud. "Dude, no way. Every kid wants a cool dad like you." Then he cracked some joke, smiled that gigantic smile, threw back his bottle, and we forgot all about the seriousness of 2 minutes earlier.

photo by Claudia Lopez Photography

Last week, the search for Micah's body, somewhere in the mountains of China, was called off. The search party had found and identified the bodies of his two companions, Wade Johnson and Jonny Copp. Up to that point, everyone had hoped beyond hope that he'd be found, somehow alive. I think that for most, it took a few days to really sink in.

I only met Jonny once, but it was instantly obvious that he was a guy you WANTED to know. I never met Wade, but I knew his work, which will always be a great, lasting tribute to how he lived his life.

These three have touched, inspired, and will be sorely missed by the climbing community they dedicated their lives to. And they'll never be forgotten.

Below is a segment from "The Sharp End", which features Jonny and Micah, and was associate produced by Wade for Sender Films. It doesn't get anymore badass than these guys...

Micah Dash and Johnny Copp segment of "The Sharp End" from Cedar Wright on Vimeo.

Perfect Rendezvous

2009-05-20T11:14:00.001-07:00

I just got home from emceeing the New River Rendezvous, and couldn't be more happy with the way everything turned out. The weathermen called for rain... and rain it did. But not enough to stop the climbing, and not nearly enough to stop the party.

The rain hit just in time for the tug-o-war, and after I called Lynn Hill out of the crowd to step up and compete, I realized another guy was needed. Lynn and I had a stare down, and true to form, Team Lynn Hill kicked our ass, though the final win went to the Mountain Hardwear team of Pat Goodman, Janet Bergman, and Freddie Wilkinson. Check out Janets blog for videos of the tug-o-war.
As soon as the tug-o-war wrapped up, the competitors for the sumo pad comp were taped up. Highlight was the ladies comp.... the stamina! Absolutely amazing. In this photo I'm spinning winner Neysa Dominguez in circles... getting her dizzy before more slamming.

Up next: Dyno comp. With the help of Lydia on the time and Karen taking score, emceeing was easy. The format this year was much better than years past, with the finalists given 2 minutes to complete all the dynos they could. High flying action... and again, the ladies KILLED it. Seriously, the boys need to step their game up!

And then the band. Holy hell. Freekbass from Cincy destroyed all notions of what a dance party was. This was by far the most rockin the dance floor has EVER been. Strangely enough, some climbers actually have rhythm.

All in all, big gigantic thanks to everybody who helped out... organizers, volunteers, sponsors, competitors, and partygoers.
With southern strong women Whitney Boland and Kate Reece-McGinnis.

After the Rendezvous was wrapped up, I got some great climbing and chilling time in with an incredible friend of mine. A few hard sends (for all involved), wine, some rearranged patio furniture (from all over Fayetteville at 2am), and more sending, and the trip was complete.

Headed home, just to head back out... to the Red with old friend Angie Payne. More on that, and photos of the last week to come later...

Monsters DO exist. Free new song...

2009-05-08T18:32:00.000-07:00

Theres alot on the plate right now. A. Lot. Expect some rapid fire posts for the next few weeks to make up for the lack of recent posts. I'll be headed to the New River Rendezvous in a few days... and CAN'T WAIT!

However, lets get to business here. Three words. Herakleia. Float. Savgi.
Herakleia is the name of Mike Calls newest film, one of discovery and adventure, set in Turkey.
Float is the name of the album Misty Murphy and I are nearing completion on, to be released in July.
Savgi. Turkish for "love", and the name of the song you're about to download and blow your mind and speakers with.

Mike Call contacted Misty and I about a song for his movie, Herakleia. I toyed with some turkish instrument samples, and quickly came up with a minimalistic beat. I sent it to Misty, and was wowed upon its return. I had no idea what she'd do with it... but she nailed it. She learned a turkish love poem... in turkish... and sang it over my beat. All I could do was add a short 8 bar verse, resequence a few things, and it was ready. Quick, easy, and HOT.

Hi Fi Stream of "Savgi".
Free download of "Savgi".

You can get your copy of Herakleia at Momentum Video Magazine.
For a review of the film, Check out Straight Outta Bedlam.

More to come soon. Float, the album, is shapin up nice. Maybe, just maybe, you'll get another sneak listen in a few weeks...

DPM #4. Ode to the Haters.

2009-04-15T19:19:00.000-07:00

DPM #4 has been posted online, and is currently on its way to a gym or shop near you, if its not already there.
In this issue, I started with the news, like usual, but just couldn't do it. I've seen so much online hate toward some good cats, like Kinder, Kehl, and Sierzant, that I had to speak up. I have my fair share of haters, and believe me, I love it. Without them, I'd have stopped rappin about climbing a LONG time ago. Go check it HERE.
Read the Sonnie Trotter interview on my page while you're listening... then go visit his blog. Its for sure one of the best around. And don't miss the great photo gallery from Keith Ladzinski!

Across the pond...

2009-04-06T16:09:00.000-07:00

My recent blogs have revolved more around the things I see and learn, and less around me. So, lets get back to self indulgent spray for just a moment...

I was recently interviewed by a writer from the UK named Sarah Stirling. She contacted me about doing a piece for ukclimbing.com, a great site that I had visited often to pin down the news and goings on across the pond.
I jumped at the chance for the interview, even though I know that there are more than a few people who would jump at the chance to make me look ridiculous (well, more ridiculous than I make myself look). Fact is, I figured that if I'm gonna talk the talk, I may as well walk the walk. If she wanted to take shots at me, I'd be all for it.

We met up online, and she was extremely prepared... bringing up things I'd nearly forgotten about! This girl had done her homework, and that made for an incredibly fun interview, as we breached all sorts of subjects, and worked our way through what makes me tick.

I just saw the finished product, and I'm extremely happy with all of it. Sarah's interview and commentary was great, and Mick Ryan did an incredible job with the layout of it.

You can check out the interview HERE.

Be sure to check out the sidebar about Tom Patey! I'm pretty psyched on learning more about that guy!

Coach Knows Best (or does he?)

2009-03-31T07:17:00.000-07:00

This past weekend, my first to the Red since November, was one of those wet, cold, gray weekends where most sane people just stay inside, drinking hot chocolate and playing Trivial Pursuit. A group of us from the Shortbus instead decided on another trivial pursuit... bleak weather cragging.
Anne Skidmore, an incredibly talented photographer from New Hampshire, and crew, had come to the Red in search of steeper rock. Anne wanted to shoot photos while down, and I was happy to play tour guide. Armed with years of paying no attention to the weathermen, we were able to transform 3 drizzly days into some of the most fun cragging I've done in a while. Dry rock, dry climbing, soaked ropes and damp belayers. Throw in a few comical redneck gumbies (who may very well someday be the next Kauk and Bachar), and it turned out to be a golden weekend.
On day 3 we headed to The Sanctuary, an incredible wall of mostly hard 12's and 13's, to shoot Jesus Wept, a classic 12d. I bolt to bolted to warm up and hang the draws, and settled in for the belay while Yasmeen went to work, figuring out the moves on what would be her hardest route to date. The routes 3rd crux is a devious little pocket sequence, which can be approached two distinct ways: girl way and boy way. I opt for the girl way, backstepping and flagging so that I'm climbing static and in control, and relayed that beta to Yasi. While trying to work out the subtleties in body position to make the moves the girl way, she busted through the more powerful, boy way, to clip the draw above, and lowered to try it my way a few more times. I could see that it just wasn't fitting her, so I suggested she try the deadpoint again, and she reverted back to the boy way, sticking the move every attempt (a move I've never stuck).
6 or 8 months ago I'm not sure I'd have made that suggestion, believing that my most efficient way was THE most efficient way. Recently though, I've watched my daughter ignore my beta and come up with her own way, only to be more proud of her for figuring it out even with me telling her there was a better way. Different bodies fit into the moves of these puzzles differently, and as a coach/trainer/whatever, all I can do is make suggestions based on what I know of THAT climber. Its up to them to decide if my way works, or if they were right to begin with.
Yasi tied in for her 2nd go, with Anne hanging above shooting photos. Barely sticking the first crux move, she held it together and moved on to the first rest. In the 2nd crux, she changed her beta on the fly, opting for a balancey layback rather than a powerful lockoff, and pulled through to the big rest. We've trained and trained and trained recovery, so we both knew she had a good chance of sending, as she'd basically get to the 3rd crux, 75 feet up, mostly fresh. Throwing the more powerful deadpoint, screaming like a kung fu master, and with shouts of encouragement from across the valley, Yasmeen reeled in the little pocket, pulled to the jug, and finished off her hardest send yet... in only 2 tries. Its gonna be a good year.

3rd crux of Jesus Wept. Brad Combs
DEFINITELY doing it the hard way.
Photo: Scott James

Good Footwork Is SOOO Yesterday...

2009-03-14T19:07:00.000-07:00

Perfect temperatures...mid 50's, partly sunny, no wind. I could have been sending my dream projects. Instead I drove 4 hours roundtrip to a youth comp in a GYM in the middle of OHIO. Where? A gym. In Ohio. Yes, I know. I call my team "Shortbus" for a reason. I obviously drive the squatty little fucker.
ANYWAY... while I was there watching 84 or so young humans who don't have the first clue who John Gill or Ron Kauk are, more or less Muir or Salathe, I found myself paying attention. Ok, maybe not. I didn't actually need to pay attention to notice the complete lack of footwork and body positioning in todays young climbers. "Complete" might be an exaggeration. There were at least 6 climbers there who had a clue.
Now, I help train several people, including my 11 year old daughter. I push footwork and balanced body positions like a steroid dealer in a major league baseball locker room. I yell more about feet than anything else, except maybe people saying "Take!" on redpoint attempts. In fact, I'd be willing to say that my 11 year old, and a guy I'm training who's been climbing less than a year, have better footwork than 90% of the kids in this comp. These kids weren't all 12... many were 16-18.
I saw the same scenario over and over and over... strong kid with steel tendons ignores a backstep, stays frontal, and throws to a crimp. He manages to stick it, control the swing he created because his foot was off the wall long before he hit the handhold, even though the footchip is at about knee level. He nearly kicks a hole in the wall, apparently trying to knock the foothold off the wall in retaliation for it not letting him stand on it. Then, unarmed with the knowledge of how to match feet, flag, and reach while in control, He throws the OPPOSITE way that he's pushing, doing a tasmanian spin off the jug he just did a 2 foot dyno to. I admire the desire to make things more difficult while in the gym... but this is a little ridiculous.
I blame it 100% on the "coaches" (and I use that word VERY lightly). I heard so many coaches say "NICE!! Great job!", or "Way to go for it!". Bullshit. "Terrible! That sucked!". "Way to look like you were having convulsions in the air!" "Nice job denigrating the entire beauty of this sport!" I mean, I realize that some of these kids are 9 or 10... and in those cases the coaches should be flogged. Now, I don't yell at my daughter that way... because I don't need to. I taught her early on to stand on small feet. Not to constantly readjust feet. She learned balance, how to match, how to backstep, how to dropknee. Dropknee? Yes, its still legal. However, you wouldn't know it to watch a youth comp.
Kaitlynn won today, pretty handily. She won't win them all, and she's cool with that. She's proud of where she's at... and so am I. What I'm most proud of is that the skills she's displaying will make her a better rockclimber... indoors, outdoors, wherever... and one that looks like she knows what she's doing. If the rest of these kids continue to listen to their "coaches", then Kaitlynn will look even better.
And I swear to Jim Bridwell, if I ever hear another 12 year old kid say "So how hard do you climb?", I'll.....

Ladies and Gentlemen, THIS is your National Champion. An interview with Alex Johnson

2009-03-06T19:21:00.000-08:00

We'll start with the basics: Please state your name, age, and hometown(s) for the record.

Alex Johnson, 19, Hudson, WI. For the record.

You’re only 19? Shit, I feel old. You’re a Midwest girl, but you're in Colorado now. Can we still claim you, or have you become one of "them"?

I am, and will always be, from Wisconsin. Although tomorrow I am getting new plates and my license changed, please, claim all you want.

You shocked everyone by winning the Vail World Cup Comp, and continued your roll at this year’s Nationals. Do you buy your steroids from pro baseball players, or do you just get them off the mean streets of Fort Collins?

Fort Collins is definitely not the place. They’re much more available in Boulder. They have organic, too.

So why bouldering? Can we expect you to do some "real" hard climbing in the future?

Bouldering because I am afraid of lead falling. But I am not against sport! There’s just more of an abundance of boulders in Colorado than cliffs.

Which female climber has influenced you the most?

Lately it’s been Kelly and Lisa. I grew up climbing with guys, though. Shout out to Brian Camp.

You coach youth climbers, right? Which young female climbers do you see with the most potential?

Past tense on coached, unfortunately. The kids I worked with are Minnesota-bred. There are a bunch of strong kids in MN! Some of them were at the Youth Nationals. Everyone better watch out.

You're a role model now. There’s a young male climber, who's pretty damn strong, named Alex Johnson, also from the Midwest. Have you thought about suing him for the rights to the name, as it applies to climbing?

Do you really think I’m a role model? I’m pretty sure he’s from Chicago. The first time he appeared, people thought I registered myself in the wrong category. It hurt my feelings that they thought I was that dumb!

Of course you’re a role model… take your recent trip to Bishop as an example. Besides a couple of V9 flashes, you made impressive sends of "Evilution" (to the lip- V10), and "Mystery" (V12), which you called your hardest yet. A little birdie told me it wasn't all about the climbing while in Bishop.... care to elaborate?

I’ll pass on the elaborating for now, but this birdie seems to have been getting around! Thanks on the props, and I’m returning to Bishop March 12^th.

V13. What does it mean to you... and when will we see it go down?

Hard As Shit; and when Puccio does Nothing but Sunshine.

I've been trying like hell in my songs to create a rivalry between you and Alex Puccio. What would it take to get you two to wrestle or kickbox or something? Who would win?

Wo pony, speak of the devil! I would get my ass kicked, I’m a horrible fighter.

What we all really want to know is... have you ever kissed a girl? Tongue?

Have not, and probably never will, sorry. Something about girls grosses me out. No offense to any girls.

I’m not grossed out by girls. I've heard you don't like ice cream. You're aware that means you have an unfair advantage over the rest of us when it comes to strength/weight ratio, right? What are your vices?

You mean besides the unfair advantage I constantly hear about by being taller than everyone else? I should be unstoppable now! Ice cream hurts my teeth. I have a horrible addiction to Taco Bell and Cherry Coke. I may need an intervention soon.

Mmm…. Meximelts. So you're also a badass pole vaulter. I was a pole vaulter! Think you could get me a date with your teammate who won the Conference Meet?

I WAS a pole vaulter, and not really a badass one. I think you may have mistaken me for my teammate and one of my best friends, Lauren, who is currently single. She’ll be in Vail for the World Cup, I’ll introduce you.

You’d be my new favorite person. So who's your favorite middle aged white climbing rapper? Your answer to this question will determine how I make you look in this interview...

Well you of course! Silly. Have you met Dan Dewell? MC Boondoggle! Maybe you could do a duet. Odub featuring Boondoggle!

I’m down. Hook it up. One thing though…George Michaels? I mean.... George Michaels??? Please explain yourself before I show this video....

One of the most amazing songs to sing and dance along with. You can’t disagree. Come on, I’m my mother’s daughter, I grew up with all that kind of music! So fantastic.

INTUIT10N = inspiration

2009-02-20T17:05:00.000-08:00

If you're a climber, its nearly impossible that you haven't seen, and probably admired, the work of the creative force that is Jeremy Collins. His images have brought visual truth to the pages of Rock and Ice, Climbing, Alpinist, Trail Runner, and even as far removed from the outdoors as The Wall Street Journal. His recently released book, "INTUIT10N : a decade of work" landed on my doorstep several weeks ago, and I've been trying like hell to figure a way to put into words what I experienced upon first turning its pages. I still haven't come up with how to do it... but I'm going to try.
I remember when I first realized the genius behind Jeremy's work. It was in a magazine article concerning the ethics of bolting, and the 3 or so images that accompanied the written piece did far more for me than the words. I haven't a clue what that article said, but i remember in detail the painted images I saw. Particularly striking was the hairless figure, with the obvious back of a climber, standing in front of a blood red, barren wilderness landscape. The figures face was in shadow, looking downward, unsure of its position or place in the world. Down the figures spine is a line of bolts and hangers. I'll never forget what that painting said to me.
I tried to flip thru the pages of INTUIT10N, but I couldn't. I would only get a few pages deep, and another image would stop me in my tracks, and leave me lingering, losing track of time. All in all, it must have taken 2 weeks to get through all the images, and I still have the feeling that I could learn twice as much if I'd start again from the front cover.
INTUIT10N is dedicated to not only the images, but also the process. Throughout the book you'll find essays by John Long, Steph Davis, Alison Osius, Matt Samet, and many other influential climber/writers who have felt the power of Jeremy's work. Its full color, 211 pages are worth far more than you'll pay.
I've always considered my own music to be art. Much of it is tongue in cheek, and much of it is serious. Jeremy effortlessly weaves back and forth between humor and bold faced message. I admire and respect him for that feat. INTUIT10N now sits in my studio, beside my turntable, so that when I'm in the need for inspiration, it'll always be within my reach.

Please check out Jeremy Collins' website at www.jercollins.com , and pick up INTUIT10N at http://www.lulu.com/content/5090000/. You won't be disappointed.

Quiet Please!!

2009-02-16T18:37:00.000-08:00

As my man Randy Leavitt would say, "Quiet Please!!". The new issue of Deadpoint Magazine is on the stands (for free!) and on the web. www.deadpointmag.com Click on "Current Issue" and flip through. Its more than just a mag... you get videos that go with the stories and articles, and a song to go with my column.
In this issue I dish on just about everything... Lynn Hill, Andy Raether, Joe Kinder, Sharma, P-Rob, and even the newly single hottest of the hot climbing women. You don't wanna miss this one!
Also, you can now go to my music page at www.odubmusic.com and download the past DPM songs.
While you're at DPM, be sure to check out the video of Kinder on the 1st ascent of Southern Comfort Right, shortly after making the 2nd ascent of the direct finish, right here in the Dirtee Dirtee!
And don't miss Kehl's Crypt... as always, creative as hell, and bound to get you psyched (and prepared) for highballing!
We ain't fuckin around 'round here!

Tendonitis. Shit.

2009-01-31T22:09:00.000-08:00

I've given up. I tried to ignore it. I tried to climb through it. Hell, I even tried to rest (which didn't actually happen). Now my hand is being forced. Literally.
Two weeks ago I woke up with a strange dull pain in the back of my hand. Felt like a break, but not as severe. Same type of pressure. I figured it'd go away. Two days later it was obvious it wasn't gonna just disappear, so I did what everyone else would have done... I started training again. By the time I left for St. George, my endurance had been cut in half. At least. After a few bolts of jugs, my right arm would be wooden. Shit.
Finally I went to a doctor. Thats a big step for me. He says its a bad case of extensor tendonitis. Rest is my only option. So, again, I did the obvious. Two more days of climbing. I did manage to redpoint a 12a (which felt like 13b with my wooden claw), and fall all over Joe Six Pack, a techy Randy Leavitt 13a that I'll certainly come back for. Its bound to be a little more doable with two hands.
At any rate, I'm resting. 2 weeks. Maybe 3. Maybe a month. Till its better. If I can.
In the meantime, heres a video of Misty, drunk, freestyling about my misfortune. Sorry about the lighting and shoddy camera work. I'd had too much Rogue Ale and was just testing the video function on my new point and shoot. Regardless, its more than worth it. Enjoy!

In Southern Utah, its not all 3.2%.

2009-01-28T11:04:00.000-08:00

I'm down in St. George, at Misty Murphy's house for the week. We escaped SLC and the OR tradeshow just in time. A travel killing snowstorm hit just after we headed south for sunshine and good rock. Day 1 we climbed at VRG, and well, honestly, my hand sucks. My endurance has been halved, so I finally went to see a doc. Apparently its just a bad case of extensor tendonitis. I'm tryin to be nice to it, but its tough with so much rock to climb, unless you have beer.
Beer. Misty and I might have maybe gone to somewhere something like Nevada and sorta bought beer, or a beer like product, and kinda brought it back into the Mormon state. Maybe. I think.
At any rate, it did its job. Joining us for the drunken festivities were Misty's man toy, Lib Narho, the infamous John "Verm" Sherman, and his lady friend, Cindy. Misty's friend Jen also rolled through, and turned out to be REALLY funny.
Somehow Verm was psyched to record his first rap, so we descended into the studio and let loose. When the song is mixed and done... you'll hear it. OH MY. You have no idea...
However, I thought Verm was a drinking pro. Seems that shortly after his turn on the mic he crossed the line, and passed out on the couch. Verm, you missed out, but I got it on tape so you can see it when you finally come to...

Misty breakin it down... and The Verm, missin it.

DELAYED!

2009-01-23T06:57:00.000-08:00

I didn't get to bed last night until 1am, which left me with 2.5 hours of sleep before I had to beat my alarm clock into submission and drive 1.5 hours to the airport. I took a quick flight to Memphis, to lay over for an hour before heading to my final destination of Salt Lake, for the Winter OR show. However, my hour layover became 4 hours, as our plane is grounded at LaGuardia. Shit. It really wouldn't be so bad, except I have to sit here surrounded by frantic people who are yelling into their cell phones, apparently hoping that someone will pull a new plane and crew out of their ass. I'm not gonna sweat it though... I've found a pleasant side effect to this waiting game.
Have you ever noticed that when you're alone in a public place, for any length of time, that women who wouldn't normally warrant a second glance, are suddenly smokin hot? Maybe I just harbor some airport fantasy that I'm not consciously aware of, but I swear I've looked longingly at 14 different women in the past 10 minutes.
Make that 15. I'm suprised her daughter let her out of the house dressed that way.
At least every 3rd woman who passes by has my attention. I've been here a few hours already, so of course I've already decided on a few "regulars". There's the extremely distraught Daddys Money Ski Bunny who yelled at her mother on her iPhone that she "could never sleep at a time like this". Its a crisis, I imagine. The powder may completely melt before she makes it to Utah. Regardless, I'm positive she would make beautiful babies.
Then theres "Blue Dress". In fact, I could say those 2 words to any male (or female) within 20 gates of my seat, and they'd know who I mean. I first saw her in the food court. She smiled at me in between bites of some cubed potato product smothered in ketchup. I'm suprised I caught the smile, as I was sure my gaze was fixed on the plunging neckline of her dress. Evening gown. Electric blue. Its 9am at the airport lady. Oh well. Thanks for that.
And now the mom that just walked by a few minutes ago. She's been by 4 more times. She's tugging along a cute little curly haired girl (proof positive that she makes beautiful babies) with one hand, and pulling some $300 designer bag that I couldn't possibly fit my ipod into with her other. I'm going with the theory that she makes her money herself, because I'm certainly in the market for a sugar momma. She said hello.... and she has that southern drawl that melts me. Of course, the rock on her finger is at least 2 pitches tall. I'll just pretend I don't see that...
In a few hours I'll (hopefully) make it to SLC, and it'll be the same deal all over again. A convention center filled with hot, athletic women who like to get dirty, but that'll be another blog altogether.
For now, I'm just excited to see who I'm sitting next to on the plane...

Oh Nine

2009-01-03T22:43:00.000-08:00

Its hard to believe its been a year since we rang in '08. I've dated girls who spend longer on their hair. Actually, I'll probably date more of those girls, so I'll leave that one alone.

At any rate, '08 was a good year. Every year we all meet a million new people, and maybe 3 of those we'll remember in the distant future for the impact they've made on our lives. I have at least 3 of those this year. They may or may not know that things they've done, or things they've said, have helped me make profound choices that I'm sure I won't regret. One is a beautiful voice and all around creative woman whose wit and artistry amaze me. One is an incredibly talented writer with leave you speechless looks who can be as shockingly abrasive as one of the guys, though twice as intelligent. The third is one of the strongest women I've met, and you can see it in the way she raises her children, hear it in the way she speaks of her life, and learn it just from watching her eyes dance. So to Misty, Lydia, and Amy.... Thank you, and I hope that I can somehow do for you what you've done for me.

NOW... it wouldn't be a new year if it didn't have a party! In this case, a party at Rocktown, GA, with nearly the entire Red River Gorge, half of Indianapolis, and Frank from the Gunks. Throw in a chainsaw, a giant fire, and perfect sandstone boulders, and you've got yourself a regular hoedown!

Blue Skies, Perfect Temps, and Velcro Friction.

2008-12-27T22:46:00.000-08:00

Yeah, right. Quite the opposite. More like, "Can't even see the sky because we're engulfed in a cloud, its 70 degrees in December, and its 398% humidity." Lovely, to say the least. Near perfect climbing conditions... if you're a fuckin Gorilla in the Congo.

Hold up... it wasn't ALL bad. In fact, Christmas day was actually near perfect. Ines and I decided to stop at LRC since it was closer than HP40, so we could get more climbing in. We warmed up, and I headed back to Cleopatra to try and get my revenge. Stuck the hard move with NO problem. Then fell a move later. Again. Again. Again. Finally stick the "last" of the hard moves. Fall off the top. Apparently it isn't over, huh? Little break.... send. My first "real" V8 took WAY more skin than I had anticipated, but I'm glad to have donated. Now I'm just gonna stand near that problem and spew beta whenever I can.

Then came the rains.

We met up with Joe "this shit is wack, yo" Kinder and his better half, Colette, and Ryan Johnson to head up to Dayton Pockets, in hopes that the roof would hold some dry rock. A little damp... but we had a fun day despite the conditions.

Ryan crushing, and me doing my patented "Super Speed Kung Fu Spot".

Me, coppin a feel on Colette. Joe's too busy with the camera to notice...

Me workin out the moves on "Sand Blasting Skin".

After we worked our abs into submission, and after much deliberation, weather checking, and calzones the size of footballs, Joe, Colette, Ines and I headed for Rocktown.

This is what we awoke to:

Natalie and the Pimp Van, engulfed in a cloud.

No go on the rock scaling. I'm back home in Cincy. Gonna chill with Katy for a couple of days... then make another assault on Rocktown. Weather looks good and I'm gunnin for a problem called "The Vagina"... what could be better?

Ice.

2008-12-23T21:44:00.000-08:00

I had quite a bit of time to think today. 5 and a half hours, to be exact. Just as I was leaving work, all of nature conspired against me, and coated all of Cincinnati and the surrounding area in just enough ice to make driving seem impossible. And it seems, it WAS impossible for the people who had to go the same routes I did... because every way I went there was a roadblocking accident or 3. Should have taken an hour... took over 5. Not very productive.

No matter. Natalie (my Element) and I were just fine. In fact, she's been nothing but great. I had no intention of buying an Element, but on my way to car shop, my friend Justin said "You don't want a Hyundai... you want a Honda". Apparently I did, because I bought her an hour later. Anyway, this isn't about Natalie. I'll dedicate a blog to her later.

Like I said... time to think.

Heres what I thought about:

My new Sierra Designs BTU jacket. Warm. Hot. I look damn good in it.

Christmas with Katy. This isn't my favorite time of year, but she makes it all worth it. We had an immense amount of fun shopping, wrapping, and taking photos.
Bouldering... or more importantly, bouldering on good ole Southern Sandstone. Photo by Anna Hayes.

I leave in 28 hours for Horsepens, to start on my V9 projects. Shit, I don't even have a clue what V9 is going to feel like. Probably something akin to spending 5 and a half hours driving home on the ice...

Southern Sandstone and Sweet Potato Pie

2008-12-13T17:47:00.000-08:00

My tips aren't shredded. Instead, they're just worn through. Raw. I love it. However, I've not remotely reached the level of dedication my friend "Badash" Hamilton did at the Triple Crown in LRC last weekend (where, incidentally, she took 2nd in womens advanced... go Ash!) Badash showin off the dedication it takes. Photo by Dan Brayack.

I've been here at LRC for a couple of days now, losin skin with a great crew of people. Ana Hayes, Catherine West, Shannon Lamb, Keenan Connor, and some other psyched climbers. I've been tourin the classic 5's, 6's, and 7's. Bouldering is hard. Fuckin hard. I'm not so good at it, but I will be. Winter will bring me power.... bet on it. Just to throw my hat over the fence... the goals for the winter are "The Orb", "The Vagina", and a V9... not sure which. I'll be coppin feels on all the good ones I run across to find the right one. If you don't hear about them on here by March... talk shit about me. I would about you...

I'm currently sitting in a nice warm apartment, with about 11 people and 3 dogs, eating the most amazing sweet potato pie you could imagine, courtesy of Jesse Cherry and Brian Tuteur. They've not only graciously opened their home to us, but cooked us crabcakes, potato and veggie stew, and sweet, sweet, sweet potato pie.

Jesse is a particular inspiration to watch climb. 11 months ago she took a bad fall at TWall, breaking her pelvis in 3 places, fracturing a vertabrae, and breaking a wrist. Today she hiked her most recent project, "Super Mario", a great V4. (This, after working 2 full time jobs the day before, getting home at 7am and sleeping only about 5 hours.) I've never seen someone so excited. She had to pause for a few minutes on the topout so as not to shake herself off with excitement. I had decided my day was over, but riding on the wave of her excitement, went on to do a V5 and flash a V6. Thanks Jesse! Next time I want to whine about something...anything... I'll think twice.

One more day here till Xmas. More to come later...

808's and Heartbreak

2008-12-06T22:11:00.000-08:00

I've been procrastinating on writing a new blog. Instead, I've been reading what everyone else does from day to day. Since most of my favorite bloggers have been absent the past few days, I've given in, sat down, and now here I am, typing aimlessly.

Actually, I almost have a reason. I've been listening to Kanye's new masterpiece, "808's and Heartbreak". Genius. Its where Andre 3000 left off with "The Love Below", and a wonderful throwback to Stevie Wonder, only more melancholy, and much more modern. If you aren't bumpin it right now, then well, you should be.

Thing is, I can't get sad. I'm trying to use it to channel unsettling memories, so I can get the full "heartbreak" experience. The memories are all there, from the death of my brother, to the "what ifs" left over from the amazing woman in Canada. I'm just at a place in my life where I see how those things have shaped me, and in realizing this, they are no longer "sad" memories.

I'm climbing better than ever. Work is surviving the economic disaster mostly intact. Kaitlynn keeps growing up, and just handily won her first ABS comp. Music has been strangely satisfying lately. I have no complaints. I almost wish I'd heard this album 2 years ago so that I could really connect with and appreciate it.

Damn.

Just when the best collection of melancholy melodies that hiphop could produce hits the shelves, I'm all good.

Figures...

Justin Timbodub... that girl is crazy!

2008-11-30T21:56:00.000-08:00

If you don't already, go check out my girl Misty Murphy's blog... absolutely hilarious. Hysterical. I can't believe she posted that photo of me... Haha!

http://mistymurphy.blogspot.com/2008/11/scratch-n-sniff-sexiest-man-alive.html

Don't stop there though... read through her blog. I promise you'll laugh out loud...

New friends, New family

2008-10-30T20:45:00.000-07:00

Its true, I'm a bit of a loaner. Maybe it comes from a childhood that was less than secure. Maybe it springs from a decade of strictly trad climbing in the sport climbing paradise of Red River Gorge. Or more likely, it comes from having to disown every friend I knew at 19, so that I could stay out of jail, or worse. Probably much worse.

Recently I've forced myself to be more social in situations when I'd normally find my own space. I actually wrote it into my training program. Silly, but it worked. I've gained a number of friends and connections I never would have realized otherwise. Like switching from slab to steep, I'm happy to be versatile enough to feel comfortable at the party, or listening to it from my sleeping bag.

Last weekend I was in New River Gorge for the Deadpoint Magazine launch party. Someone asked me how I got hooked up with the event, and with the crew from the New. I'm not even sure what my answer was... something long and drawn out, fueled by PBR, I'm sure. That question though, has gotten me thinking.

I've only seen these people once or twice a year... and only for three short years. Why does it seem like I've known them forever?

The answer is simple. It's just them.

I have my daughter, and I have my grandparents, and that's all the family I have. But maybe not...

It didn't really occur to me until my lovely friend Lydia pointed out, while gesturing toward super woman Maura Kistler, "...and there's the denmother."

Since day one, everyone of these people has gone out of their way to make me feel at home. Maura and Gene Kistler. Kurt and Elaina Smith. Kenny Parker. Matt and Megan Stark.

I'm indebted to all of you for the hospitality. Thanks for making me feel like family. In turn, I plan on making myself a nuisance. The New might never get old...

Launch Lessons.

2008-10-30T20:09:00.000-07:00

If you aren't already familiar (you should be), make a point to visit Deadpoint Magazine Online. I'm betting there's a stack of the print issues already waiting at your gym or local gear store. Pick it up. Don't pay for it. Sneak it out. Oh... wait... you don't have to... its FREE!!! Both online and print. Take it home. Shit, take home 12 and pass them out to your friends, your neighbors, your grandma, and your shrink. Regardless, be sure to peep it online. You'll get videos, extras, and yes... a new song from yours truly. Just check it.

Rocktoberfest and The Heffalump

2008-10-18T17:34:00.000-07:00

Lets see... here we are again and I can't even tell you what the date of my last post was... 3 weeks ago? I dunno. Who cares. Since there are 4829473892384 climber blogs out there, I'm sure I'm hardly missed. Fact is, I'd rather read Sonnie Trotter and Joe Kinder's blogs than write my own. Ha.
First off... The Heffalump. Now, when this route used to have an attitude, it was called "Elephant Man", a steep bouldery 13b up the center of the main wall at the extra sharp and angry Darkside wall in Red River Gorge. I tried it 7 times in the spring... but just wasn't ready. Maybe it was mental. On 3rd try this fall... once the temps got back to heading toward crisp... I clipped the chains. I can't say it wasn't a fight, but it sure felt good. It can no longer burden me with its bad attitude, so I've renamed it, in my own thoughts, "The Heffalump".
On to Rocktoberfest. I was slated to emcee this event, which was a long time coming. Last year the RRG hosted the Petzl Roctrip, which was, for all intents and purposes, the first REALLY big event we had pulled off. This event, however, didn't have the benefit of help from the Roctrip. This was all RRGCC. Yes, there were glitches. Yes, it could have been bigger. All in all though, it turned out to be a great event, with some great people. Tommy Caldwell, Daniel Woods, Justen Sjong, Emily Harrington (who knew she was built like that... if you get a chance, watch her walk away, you won't be disappointed!), Micah Dash, Cedar Wright, Whitney Boland, and Sonnie Trotter all came out to teach clinics, socialize, enjoy the party, and crush some of the Red's amazing sandstone. I had a particularly nice conversation with Sonnie about alot of things other than climbing. Its nice to chat with somebody who is just layin in the cut, enjoying what life has given him. Sonnie is for real... an extra psyched, extra nice guy. Check out his blog... its well written and entertaining. www.sonnietrotter.com

I gotta put that guy in a song for something other than his prowess with the climber ladies... haha!

So whats next? Started work on Paradise Lost, a SWEET 13b arete in Red River at Purgatory. I've been on it 3 times, and I'm falling off the top. We'll see how that goes.

My friend Justin Riddell on Paradise Lost, 13b. Photo by Scott James.

Butt of the joke...

2008-09-27T10:12:00.000-07:00

Now, to say the least, I can be sarcastic. I suppose I've offended a person or two along the way with my bluntness, sarcasm, and willingness to just call somebody out.

The most exciting thing about it for me is when somebody hits me back... creatively. Not just "my dad could beat up your dad" shit... but real wit.

Years ago, an icon of Red River climbing, Chris Snyder, and I, got into a little verbal war. I ended up saying some things that might have been inappropriate and I got kicked off the forum we were arguing on. Haha... my former climbing partner owned and ran the site... but his moderators and admins collectively voted that I had gone too far. I agreed.

In the past year we've made peace. It only makes sense now that I'm clippin bolts and we see each other at the crag at least once a month... usually more. Not too long ago, he posted a comic strip on that same website, redriverclimbing.com, that was about me.

My thoughts on it? Hysterical. Absolutely genius.

My point is, if you're going to be a sarcastic ass, try hard to see the genius behind what other's say about you. In this case... my hat's off to Chris.

In desperate need of project patience...

2008-08-31T17:11:00.000-07:00

I was starting to get irritated. See, I suck at projecting routes. I've only climbed 13a, and the longest I've worked on one is 5 tries. Beer Belly, a sweet Mike Doyle route in Red River, looked like it was gonna go fast. I fell at the last move on my 2nd go. And my 3rd. And my 4th. And my 5th.

Now I was in new territory. Was it in my head? Was it the humidity? Was it my tweaked shoulder? Do I suck? Should I take up badminton?

6th go... not even close. Fell all over it.

7th go... last move... again. Shit.

Finally, on the 8th go, I stick the damned move. Finally.

Finally.

Setting up for the crux...

The crux, just before the big throw...

NOT sending, but at least I look good doing it...

After Beer Belly, I began work on its neighbors, Spank (13a), and Dirty Smelly Hippie (13b). Spank wasn't bad... a 12a to the worlds greatest jug, followed by 18 feet of STEEP "I can't clip from these holds sloper slappin". After a couple of big falls off the last few moves, it went down on go #4. Back to normal.

Dirty Smelly is similiar to Spank... except the crux is much harder. That is, till I found the kneebar right in the middle of it on go #2. I think it'll go within 5. Problem is, those last moves are hard. Guess I'd better learn, huh? The cooler weather is comin fast, and I've got 13b's to send.

JATD 2008... a time for work, fun, and reflection

2008-08-11T11:30:00.000-07:00

JATD. Johnny and Alex Trail Day.
Several years ago, two friends of mine passed away within a few months of each other. John Bronaugh and his son, Alex Yeakley both embodied the Red River Spirit. This trail day, as John organized the first one, is their annual memorial. I'd been asked to speak at the afterparty, and Kaitlynn and I were excited about attending to put some labor back into the trails we use every weekend.
Katy and I got up EARLY. 5a.m. ish early... We rolled into the Red right on time, and met up with friends to get to work out at the PMRP. Kaitlynn, my friend Melissa, and I set to work at The Shire, rebuilding the eroding ground at the base of the wall with a motivated crew of people, many of whom we knew... Jon, Jordan, Dr. Bob, and some others.
It was a hot day, but everybody toughed it out and got an amazing amount of work done. Kudos to all who slaved away in the KY humidity!

Kaitlynn after a hard days work.

After the work, we headed to the lake at Lago Lindas. Here we met up with Tina Bronaugh and Johns youngest son, Jesse. Melissa and I hit the lake while Jesse and Kaitlynn canoed around. Now, I'm no Michael Phelps. Fact is, the water is just not my comfort zone. However, when we decided to head across the lake to the slip-n-slide, I decided to shelf my fears, and swim the distance. I just focused on relaxing, and it wasn't so bad. Maybe the 2012 Olympics and I'll give Phelps a run for his money...
The slip-n-slide was great fun. Kaitlynn finally got on, and once she did, there was no stoppin her. Apparently, the slip-n-slide isn't my forte either. Some of those guys were pros...

Melissa, Katy, and I... crushin the slip-n-slide.

Next up: Dinner. Great food, beer, and chatting with friends. I got to chat with Melissa some more, which was nice. Shes excited about climbing, and wants to sponge whatever info she can... and since I love to spray my philosophies around, its a great match! An amazing bluegrass band played, and during their break, several people spoke about John and Alex. Matt Tackett got pretty emotional... which led to the rest of us being emotional. Funny how that happens. The band started back up, picking up spirits, everybody danced, and of course, the beer was still flowin. I'm gettin old, but I think I held out till most were headed for bed. So did Kaitlynn... crankin pullups on the ceiling beams till the wee hours. Pullups?? Where did those come from? She'll be crushin everybody before long...

In a few days its off to Salt Lake. First to Maple Canyon for Cobblefest, then to the OR. More shows with Misty, more climbing, and more beer, I'm sure. Can't wait!

Special Thanks to Wes Allen for the JATD photos. See his more of his incredible camera wizardry at www.radicalangles.com

Lander, Wyomin'

2008-07-18T09:10:00.000-07:00

Ok, so I suck at updating this. It can only get better, I think. Of course, there's always the prospect of complete abandonment, which is never out of the question... but lets hope for otherwise.

The last few weeks I've been riding a whirlwind, which dumped me off at the airport in Salt Lake City. There, I met up with good friend and wonder woman Devaki Murch, who whisked me away to lunch and to meet with my ride to Wyoming. Muchas gracias Devaki... you seem to always save the day in your invisible jet! Misty hooked me up with the ride (thanks Misty!) with her friend Damien, a cool Argentinian who brought along his girl and their bouncy little dog. Even though the car was packed... the drive was fast and fun.

Destination: Lander, Wyoming.

Morning 1 in Lander I hooked up with Chris Lindner and crew to do some climbing at Wild Iris. The rock there is the polar opposite of the Red... short, bouldery, and slippery. I loved it. Got in a couple really good mid-12's and tried a 13a.

Two Kinds Of Justice 12b/c... Spencer belaying.

After belaying Chris on the famous "Throwin The Houlihan" 14a, which looks impossible, and takin some big falls off of "When I Was A Young Girl, I Had Me A Cowboy", 13a, we headed back to to the hotel for some Mexican cookin.

Now... Chris is sponsored by Camp Chef, so he brings these huge incredible camp grills and cookware with him, and makes these elaborate dinner (always in a tortilla) every night. I'm a Chef Boyardee kinda guy, so it was fun to witness all this. While Carlos was videotaping the Chris Lindner Cookery show, the hotel management showed up at the door.... told us we couldn't cook there!! However, the show must go on. We set up the grill in the middle of the alley in back of the hotel. Haha. It was comical to say the least!

Chris finding the spatula he'd just sent Scotty to find... for the 2nd time.

Chillin in the alley with Chris.

After the tortilla fest, we headed to the bar so I could emcee the raffles and introduce Chris to the Lander crowd, where he would be showing his movie "Spray".

Its amazing how the climbers and cowboys coexist there. No tension at all... just beer and laughs.

Next day I headed to Wild Iris with Misty Murphy and her hubby Bill. Misty and I had just met, despite doing several songs together, and I think we were both nervous about how we'd get along. It didn't take much time to realize that we were both a little off our rockers and we all had a great time. Bill is one of those silent strong men who has developed as many sport routes as most people ever climb. Those kinds of guys deserve way more credit than they get...

I tried "When I Was A Young Girl..." several more times... falling off the final move twice. I was pretty psyched to be close to a 13a in an area other than the Southeast, that didn't fit my style, and on completely foreign rock. I didn't even intend to try anything hard... but after my first go, I thought I might have a chance. Only one day left though...

The "Rose Move" on "When I Was A Young Girl I Had Me A Cowboy", 13a

That night, I had to perform at the festival, and Misty and I were going to do our song "Float", a tribute to Todd Skinner... who's family were going to be present. NERVES!!! We were both pretty nervous, but we got the sound system set up (finally), and ran through the song once... our first time doing it together. It went great. Now for the real thing....

Once the crowd thickened, and the dyno comp was finished, I took the front and center position. Of course, its not hard to get climbers to listen when you talk about climbing... so I had their attention from the get go.

A few songs in, I brought Misty up to perform "Float". All these people staring at us were friends and family of Todd... including his wife and children. Scary. We pulled it out... and the crowd loved it! Amy Skinner, Todds wife, came up and gave us hugs afterward. Phew!! Emotional...

Misty Murphy and Odub... Live in Lander

I finished out the show with a couple of big songs, and then to shouts of "Encore!", I did an acapella version of a "name dropping" song that Misty and I are working on. They were lovin it!

Misty and I hung out, sold CD's, talked to lots of drunk people.... and got our drink on as well.

It couldn't have gone better.

Next day I went climbing with the crew Misty had been camping with. Lots of laughs! Did a cool, slippery 12a called "Saddle Tramp"

Saddle Tramp 12a

Late in the day, Bill volunteered to hike WAY out to the Erratic to belay me on my last goes at "When I Was A Young Girl...". We arrived... and NO DRAWS. I had brought just enough to do it... and nearly sent it hangin the draws. Rested 20 minutes... and crushed it. Psyched! The coolest part... its an Amy Skinner FA.

So, Lander was amazing. The climbing was extra cool, the people were even cooler. I can't wait to make it back...

Big gigantic thanks to Misty and Bill (and Joe and Lily) for getting me back to the airport just in time!!

Evolv-ing

2008-06-10T22:20:00.000-07:00

Climbs:

I've been wearing Evolv climbing shoes (Predators) for several months now, and quickly decided they are the best shoes I've ever stuffed my feet into. That makes it even more exciting for me to become a part of their athlete roster! Joining Team Evolv means that I'll be joining with some of the best climbers on the planet... Sharma, Rands, Lindner... to wear and promote shoes made by an incredible company. Not only are they the greenest climbing shoe company on the market, but they go out of their way to be a force in the community. My kind of people. They're sending me the new "Optimus Prime", which I can't wait to put to rock...

Gettin started...

2008-06-01T19:35:00.000-07:00

Climbs:

I've spent the last year and a half getting to know sport climbing, training, and gyms. Things that, in my years as a traddie, I wasn't familiar with. I guess a 3 year layoff changes your perspective...
The gym training has been incredible. Sport climbing is a complex and beautiful dance, and I like to think I'm good at it. 13a's are coming easier and easier, and I've just started work on my first 13b's... Elephant Man and Shiva... both in the Red.

Got on Elephant Man after sending Tuskan Raider (12d), which shares the first bolt. Its full on from bolt 2 to bolt 6... then a bad stance... and another bolt of hard moves, followed by a 12a headwall. Power endurance at its finest.

Shiva is the opposite. I tried it after a 2nd go ascent of Tapeworm (12d pictured at right)... its neighbor. Shiva is steep 12a to a hard V7ish boulder problem, to more steep jugs. Should be fun to work on...

Rhymes:

Where to start?? I've recently started a new project... one I'm extra psyched on. I'm working with an incredibly talented singer/songwriter/musician/climber/hottie named Misty Murphy from Utah. Check her out at www.mistymurphy.com. We just released our first collaboration, entitled "Float", which is a remix of sorts of her song "35". "Float" is meant as a tribute to climbing legend Todd Skinner, a big influence in my climbing.

I've received several emails from friends and family of Todd, including from his niece Becca and his widow, Amy. It gives me chills that the people close to Todd are touched by our song. We'll be performing it in Todds hometown in July... I'm already nervous.

You can download "Float" here: http://www.soundclick.com/util/downloadsong.cfm?id=6543207

Life:

I have no complaints... none at all. Why is it that writing is better when there are complaints?? Work is good, money is good, life in general is, well... good. Just finished a great mural at work... Undersea theme in a room absolutely made for this mural. Is so much more fun to paint when it makes sense in the space...

My daughter, Kaitlynn, did her first lead climbs a few weekends ago! Led 3 more this past weekend. Only 10 years old. She'll be schoolin me in a few years, no doubt... I look forward to that, though. I asked her once how good she wanted to be at climbing... her immediate answer: "Better than you."

Won't be long...